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Stores: Keeping Count

Burdine’s, Rich’s, Lazarus, Marshall Field’s, Robinson-May, Foley’s—what do these stores have in common? Neiman Marcus, Lord & Taylor, Parisian’s, The Sports Authority, Albertson’s, J.Jill—what do these stores have in common?

The first group of store names is going away for good; they are converting to the Macy’s brand (some units will close), and the original names will fade into history. Stores in the second group have either recently been sold or are up for sale, as the frenzy of mergers and acquisitions (M&A) fever that started in retail early last year continues. (Also rumored to be for sale are Tiffany, Saks Fifth Avenue and L.L. Bean.)

And it’s not just store names that are going away—it’s also employees. Federated announced that it would layoff around 2,600 employees as part of its plan to enfold May Co. into Federated Department Stores. And store closings have accelerated as well. Radioshack is closing up to 700 stores; Williams-Sonoma is closing all of its Hold Everything Stores and so on…also displacing employees.

This is the new hot trend of “creative destructionism.” That is the current buzzword that is bouncing around CEO’s offices these days. The theory goes: sometimes you have to destroy something in order to make it better (Nevermind the people who get bashed in the head by falling debris during the demolition process.).

Unfortunately, there is beginning to be so much cumulative fallout that it may become disruptive to consumers and businesses alike (and remember, employees are consumers too). Continuity and consistency are important to any business that is based on relationships—as retail is. A business’ history forms the basis for relationships with its consumers, and well-trained, experienced employees are the key to maintaining that relationship. When history and employees are summarily disposed of in order to better align the balance sheet and for the art of “doing the deal”—well, let’s hope that retailers are not throwing the baby out with the bath water.

--RoxAnna Sway

More Bad News From Gap

Last month, we talked about Gap's plans for improving their stores. This month, we have to wonder whether the aggressive plans will happen, as the company announced its first annual decline in profit in four years.

Most of the 2006 store openings (175) will be Old Navy. And most of the 135 stores they close will be Gaps, which doesn't bode well. And Bloomberg reported that the company will refurbish only 20 Gap stores after remodeling 60 last year. I don't know if that's so, but 20 refurbished stores won't work any miracles.

Following that depressing report, The New York Post published an item saying that three more senior executives have left the Gap:

  • Alan Barocas, the senior vice president of real estate
  • Felix Carbullido, vice president and general manager of gap.com
  • Jyothi Rao, vice president of merchandising for Forth & Town, a new chain started by the Gap to appeal to older women.

We'll keep watching...and hoping that this venerable retailer will turn itself around.

--Karen Schaffner

Get Cooties at Sam Goody's?

Headphones_1 Music retailing has a lot of enemies:  Bad music, Rootkits, Napster, iPods, the RIAA's changing mood about what rights consumers own when they buy music, to name a few.  No wonder so many music chains have had a rough go of it lately.  But the Diva knows the biggest (or smallest, as the case may be) predator in the music industry is cooties. Who wants to put on waxy, greasy, lice-infested headphones at a music store?  Ewwwwww.

Sam Goody seems to think they have an answer:  A new store-in-store concept called Graze that has a sound system with actual speakers, CD-Burning, a video wall, a scent generator, but, sadly, no ice cream parlor.

Seriously, in an age when grocery stores sanitize shopping carts, and everyone carries Purell around, who wants to wear yucky used headphones in a music store?  Can't we find another, cleaner, better way to hear in-store music samples? How about a standard mini-plug for your own iPod earphones (we promise not to jam our chewed Trident into the jack) or, even, say, directionally-focused Hypersonic Sound?

--Diva

Wal-Mart: In Need Of An Extreme Makeover

WalmartFinally—Wal-Mart sucks it up and decides to remodel its stores. RetailDesignDiva can hardly believe it. After three consecutive years at the head of the “Worst Store Design” list, based on DDI’s annual reader survey, published in the Portfolio issue every September, the mega-retailer has finally seen the light: it is doing a poor job of store design, and its customers deserve better.

Wal-Mart just announced plans to renovate half of its stores—about 1,800—in the next 18 months, as part of a new marketing initiative, that also includes expanding its apparel offering and launching new, brand-focused advertising, called “Beyond the Basics.” It’s all part of better positioning Wal-Mart to compete—especially with Target—and going after a somewhat more upscale customer (Last fall, the retailer experimented with ads in Vogue magazine—Diva was not impressed).

All those rows of black plastic work boots and bland home goods—Martha Stewart never came near those dismal dishtowels—have never appealed to Diva. But, who knows? If Wal-Mart brings their in-store experience up to par, Diva might consider shopping there. For now, when Diva wants to save a buck, she heads for Target. After all, Target's "Design For All" philosophy is right up Diva's design alley.

--Diva

Retail Design Biz Rocks

Diva's retail design firm friends have been acting very frenzied this past year....They've been so busy that they're having a tough time hiring enough talent to keep on top of all the work. At least that's what they told me (you never know when those slick talkers are blowing smoke); and now that DDI has completed its annual Design 100 survey, we know it's so.

There's lots of neat info in the survey report, which is in the March issue, and I don't want to steal the thunder, but here are a couple of sound bites:

  • The biggest of the big (the top 10) grew billings by a whopping 39% last year. That's no typo, folks--39%...from $322 million in 2004 to $447 million in 2005.
  • It was the big guys that grabbed most of the gowth. Overall, the Top 100 grew by $159 million (27%) ...with the top 10 accounting for all but $34 million of that.

That's all I'm telling. For the rest, you'll just have to wait for your March issue, or keep checking our Web site...one of these days we'll get it posted.

--Karen Schaffner

Big Air Design

Shaunwhite3Did you watch the Olympic Games on TV last week? Diva was totally stoked watching the “Flying Tomato,”—a name he earned because of all the wild, flying red hair— snowboarder Shaun White, get all that big air on the Half Pipe, to bring home the Gold. White “owned” snowboarding in Torino, with enough “tude” to launch him into the celebrity stratosphere. He is booked for covers of “Rolling Stone” and “Sports Illustrated,” and he is in an upcoming movie, “First Descent,” about the origins of snowboarding. This cool kid—he’s only 19—is a real inspiration.

It occurred to Diva that what the store design industry needs is designers who are brave enough to go for big air: who will chase the wind down that Half Pipe, then sail into the air,  doing a backside 9* at 30 miles an hour—risking everything to push the design envelope into the next dimension.

There are a couple of designers out there now, who have some big air under their wings. One of them is California-based Giorgio Borruso, also an award-winner, recognized for his unique, risk-taking projects, that look like nothing we’ve ever seen before. Diva would like to see a few more designers willing to let go of the handrail—and fly!

--RoxAnna Sway

*Thanks Chad of Rightline for helping us get those moves right. We have upgraded the 180 to a backside 9.

Adieu Eloise

Diva fondly recalls many late nights at the Oak Bar at New York’s historic Plaza Hotel, and strolls through the lobby with its elegant oriental cachepots filled with palms, gently swaying beneath crystal chandeliers—with violins strumming the background. Oh, the glory of it all. The most perfect hotel in the most perfect city in the world! Eloise, the character from the book, “Eloise at the Plaza,” was to be envied. What a perfect place to live—or visit?

Now, all the elegant accoutrement that once embellished the Plaza Hotel is being auctioned off to make way for—condominiums (gasp). How very déclassé.

Christie’s will auction off items from the Plaza on March 15 in its Rockefeller Center Gallery. At 99-years-old, the Plaza barely missed its 100th birthday as one of the world’s greatest hotels. The grand dame’s embellishments, ranging from bellmen’s uniforms to architectural treasures and lighting fixtures, will all go to the highest bidders. A chandelier from the Le Petit Trianon dining room is predicted to bring around $8,000. How about doorknobs? They are expected to bring around $600 to $800 per lot. Diva—being a gourmet, of course—might bid on one of those silver serving carts with the impressive roll-tops. (One of the originals from the 1930s, of course—not one of those faux, mid-'80s editions added by Ivana Trump.)

Now Diva wants to know, what smart store designer will go to this auction and snatch up some perfectly marvelous treasures to decorate a retail store?

Maybe Diva will see you there. Who knows, Eloise may pop in to purloin a trifle or two, and we can all say, “adieu,” in style.

--RoxAnna Sway

The Socialization of Real Estate

Diva has a theory about the role of real estate in retail that, if correct, could really change the way we view our retail spaces.  We call it The Socialization of Real Estate and we see this as a very critical, future trend.

Last year, iTunes became the 7th or 8th largest music store in the United States.  Think about that.  They have no real estate, at least none dedicated specifically to iTunes, and carry no inventory.  They don't have to pay for sales staff or worry about returns.  And if you look at the typical Apple store, a great deal of its space is dedicated to social functions, not traditional retail functions.  Now, if you're a large record store chain, this has got to be a huge challenge.  You've got all of this real estate dedicated primarily of the inventory management of music and yet more and more people are buying their music online. 

But, there’s still potentially a great role for music stores, but only if they become more about the music and less about the inventory.  Just think about the indie record stores (like Bleecker Bob's here in NY or the movie High Fidelity from a few years back).  No matter what happens with online music, stores like this will always play a very unique role in music distribution.  Why?  Because it’s not about the single act of purchasing — it’s about the social experience of going to a store like that.

Additionally, we’ve now trained a fairly large audience into buying and not getting the item right away.  They shop online and they expect to see the items they’ve purchased in a few days.  Or, they’ll buy online and, if they really need it right away, they’ll pick it up in-store.  But this too changes the role of the retail location.

So, Diva wants to know.  Raise your hand if you’ve ever gone to a store, taken up a great deal of the sales persons time, only to go home and buy online because you could find it cheaper?  Come on, you know you have.  Everyone does it.  And this helps to turn the retail space into a showroom, rather then a place to actually purchase.  Worse, technologies like ScanZOOM let you check the price on something by using your camera phone to take a picture of the bar code and then finding the best price.  And that’s before we start talking about AI shopping bots!

So, if the retail space might become more of a showroom and if people don’t mind shopping and having their purchases drop shipped, then what’s the impact on the real estate itself?  We see it becoming a much more vibrant and alive social space.  A place for people to gather and share their experiences through the brand, rather then sharing their experiences of the brand.  Look at the Apple store.  Lots of people talking to one another.  The theatres where you can learn together as a community.  Even the Genius Bar.  It’s much more of a social space.

We’re talking to a number of our clients about this issue right now, to see what would be different about their retail environment if it was based more on a social design and less on an inventory management design.  It’s a big change in thinking for most companies.  It means a lot more then just making the space pretty.  In fact, for us, one of the most critical issues of creating a great experience is often the first one cut—the staff.  Building a great experience means having great staff who knows how to engage people. 

And, of course, it means having a brand story that’s worthy of the social experience.  That's the biggest challenge for most retailers today.  Too many retailers are commodities.  American Girl knows how to create a story that’s worthy of a social experience.  Or stores like Wild Rumpus, an independent bookstore in Minneapolis.  Here’s what Robert Spector had to say about Wild Rumpus in his book Category Killers: The Retail Revolution and Its Impact on Consumer Culture:

"In 1992, Morgan, a veteran of the book business, decided to open a store that would be 'something a corporate mind would never dream up and that a large company could never sustain; a place that would sell children a good time along with their reading material.'

Morgan is often asked to speak to fellow owners of small bookstore owners. 'I tell them to stop bitching and complaining and get out there and do something different. Too many of them want to do things the same way as the big-box stores; then they’re dead in the water. We do things they can’t do or wouldn’t dream of doing. B&N guys in suits would come into the stores with clipboards taking notes. They were obviously trying to copy things that we were doing but they couldn’t pull it off. They are too corporate minded. We try to do the opposite of what a B&N would do.'

Wild Rumpus is two thousand square feet of bookstore—and zoo. While borrowing its name from a phrase in Maurice Sendak’s book Where the Wild Things Are (the character of Max declares 'Let the wild rumpus start'), the store design was inspired by Anne Mazer’s The Salamander Room in which a boy transfigures his bedroom into a place where his salamander would be comfortable. The lad gradually brings into his room trees, frogs, and birds, and opens up the roof to the sky.

The front of the store conjures up images of an English neighborhood bookstore. The front door of Wild Rumpus is really a door-within-a-door—one for big people and a four-foot-high purple door for little people. The ceiling opens to expose the sky above the garden. Children can settle into a little shed where they can curl up to read scary books. Resident animals are all over the store: four cats and two chickens (Dalai and Elvis) roam the floors; a half-dozen occupied bird cages are scattered throughout the store; gray rats are confined to a clear Plexiglas-covered cage, which doubles as the creaky floor of the Haunted Shack, where little boys come to play and to watch the rodent entertainment. Separately caged tarantulas and ferrets hang out by the counter. An aquarium of fish can been found in the bathroom behind the one-way mirror, so that they can only be seen in the dark.

By creating an inviting place, Morgan has found a way to create traffic and make Wild Rumpus a destination store in the urban Linden Hills neighborhood of south Minneapolis, where, within ten miles, there are six Barnes & Noble stores, three Borders, a Target, and a Musicland. On Saturday afternoons, Wild Rumpus regularly hosts a wide variety of typically quirky in-store events to attract its loyal audience of young customers. Drop in some Saturday, and you might see the shearing of a sheep, and a display of books on how to raise sheep or how to card and dye wool or how to knit."

It makes me think of how often we eat at Burger King just because they have an indoor playground. And it's not just about the actual playground. It's Sydney's (my 5 year old daughter) desire to play with a group of other children her age and the social aspect of that experience. It's not about the food there (sorry Burger King!), it's about it being a Third Place  for Sydney.

So, what is the value of real estate for retailers today? Does a record store really need to exist as it's been for the past 40+ years? Or banks, grocery stores, fashion retailers? If, thanks to the internet, people are much more comfortable getting their purchases sent to them, rather then getting them right away, do we need that much space dedicated to merchandise? So, if we can do away with the inventory portion of most retail spaces today, what else would you do with the space? How could you make it a much more social environment, rather then being a retail environment? After all, this is exactly why places like Starbuck's or the Apple stores have boomed -- they created a social space, rather then a retail space.

But, while companies look at Starbuck's or the Apple stores and say "Yea, that's great for them, but it doesn't apply to me," I think that they're missing a huge opportunity today.  And the more we try to use the space for our purposes rather then our guests (see my previous post about the Kroger In-Store Network, the more they'll stay away. We'll be tracking this trend in the future, so look for updates in the future!

--David Polinchock

Fashion Divas

There are two new fashion Divas in town. Fabulously stylish Linda Fargo just stepped up to the top fashionista position at Bergdorf Goodman. She joins Visual Merchandising’s other recent defector, Karen Smith-Harvey at Macy’s, New York, who last year segued from V.M. into the sphere of fashion merchandising. Visual’s loss is the fashion world’s gain.

Linda and Karen are both well-qualified to be fashion leaders, and both will continue to influence the world of V.M.—because, before there is a display window, before there is a well-dressed mannequin, before there are props and lights—there is a fashion director who identifies fashion trends each season and guides the store’s selection of fashion merchandise. Sometimes these folks are legendary—like Joan Kaner, recently retired from Neiman Marcus and Kal Ruttenstein of Bloomingdale’s, who sadly passed away in January. Sometimes they are unsung heroes, but fashion directors are key to the success of any retail apparel business. Their influence is felt from belts to ball gowns.

Fargo’s photo recently appeared in The New York Times (page E7), with an editor’s note: “The chains on her [Fargo’s] boots bear noting.” This Diva knows—the fashion gods are in the details, details, details. (Well we do know that from Fargo’s many award-winning, meticulously detailed display windows.) In the article, Fargo points out a fashion swing to a look that is “less about conformity.”

If you have shopped lately, you no doubt have noticed that fixturing is changing too. No more four-arm racks, laden with tonnage of commodities or coordinate groups. Now, it’s about individuality, layers and boutique looks. Straight-arm racks or special feature racks work better, as seen in Saks Fifth Avenue’s just renovated Atlanta store. Today’s customer wants to feel special; she doesn’t want to see twenty duplicate pieces of the outfit she just bought. And she wants unique accessories she can use to make the look her own. Considering that, fashion directors have never been more important.

So, Divas Fargo and Smith-Harvey take a bow—and promise to keep those stores filled with the latest and most tempting fashions we can imagine—and keep those visual merchandisers inspired.

--RoxAnna Sway

Are You Ready For Stardom?

What is it with Canadian TV producers? They seem to have discovered that store design is a fascinating career, attracting very interesting and sexy people. And they think the world would like to watch you work!

Last month DDI told you about "Making It Big," a Canada-based reality TV series that will feature three "talented, up-and-coming" visual merchandisers. 

And now we have a new documentary-style TV series called "Opening Soon: By Design," which is described as: "a sexy new series following world-class designers in their journey to create the ultimate retail experience. Art meets commerce as they struggle to develop the radical concept that will wow their clients and lure customers in droves. Follow these larger-than-life characters as the risk their reputations and millions of dollars to create the most talked-about grand opening of the season."

The series is produced by Toronto-based Red Apple Entertainment, and airs on Fine Living and HGTV Canada.

Finally, someone recognizes the glamorous world you all live in. Next thing you know, you'll be dodging the paparazzi as you dash from your limo to the courtyard of your villa in Tuscany.

--Karen Schaffner


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