Sears Goes to War

Congratulations…you have been selected by Sears to serve your country, effective immediately. Sears is enlisting men, women and even children into the war on fashion. They are boldly launching a new apparel line using authentic U.S. Army insignias called "First Infantry," the most illustrious, and oldest of the U.S. Army divisions. At a time when troop withdrawal is ever most on our minds, the launch seems mis-timed...or is it?

Nevertheless, the new clothing line for men will include durable cargo pants, knitwear and outerwear inspired by the Army and its First Infantry Division, according to Dnrnews.com. The full collection will include women's and children's apparel, (are children going off to war too?) and will be released in 550 of it 2,400 Sears stores in October. Army Brand's affordably priced First Infantry Division collection offers T-shirts at $11.99, hoodies from $29.99 to $44.99, denim at $25.99, and outerwear between $35.99 and $119.99. The outerwear styles are highlighted because of their authentic iconic silhouettes that enhance the coordinating knits, woven sweaters and bottoms. Bulletproof flak jackets are not included in the collection.

Uncle Sam wants you! So Sears Holdings' Senior VP, and Sears Apparel's President, Craig Israel, reports, "Over the years, military-inspired clothing has played a distinct role in shaping fashion trends. We are now able to exclusively offer a line that is pure to the origins of that inspiration.” FYI: Raymond Loewy, Macy’s famed window dresser invented camouflage in 1942. Yves Saint Laurent introduced camouflage in his "La Revolution" collection in 1971, just as the war in Vietnam was commencing.

Quite remarkably, the Army Brand's First Infantry Division represents the first time the U.S. Army has officially licensed the use of its marks and insignias for public consumption, reflecting two centuries of proud tradition and rich heritage. "Every design carries the official Army seal of approval," said Robert McGuinness, a company executive. Vintage inspired design, intricate attention to detail, and supreme quality standards, inspired by Army technology, the collection will offer a timeless and authentic collection for Sears, but will war-weary Americans eager for change in this election year embrace militaria?

A heartland institution as American as apple pie, Sears has a sterling history in keeping the company's corporate philosophy of supporting the U.S. military through its “Heroes at Home” program. The Army Brand collections will also give back to those who have given so much in service to the United States. The license fee paid by Army Brand is used to support programs that benefit the well-being of the troops and their families. That alone warrants some kudos.

The commitment to the All American Army Brand was evident in its prominence in Sear’s Fall Forward Fashion Exhibit, held Sept. 10 during the week of the 2008 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, in New York. It will also be apparent in numerous marketing campaigns going forward, including those planned for the holiday season, and in the store experience.

Are you ready to enlist?

--Ron Knoth, Guest Blogger

Upscale Resale Gains Popularity

I like Chanel and Fendi just as much as the next girl. But, what I don't like are the prices. I may be a highly successful writer, but c'mon people. On principle alone I wouldn't pay those prices (okay, so maybe it's more than principle at work, but you get the point).

Fortunately, designer consignment retail stores are becoming more and more popular. Now, women with expensive tastes can indulge in Louis Vuitton, Escada and Prada without the financial hangover.

It works like this: women of wealth want to "help" the less fortunate, feeling that their good clothing destiny ought to benefit someone else. So, they load up all their fancy schmancy clothes in their Hummer or Lexus SUV and take them to an upscale retail store. Then, savvy shoppers like you and I can wander in and take advantage of the upscale goods, at discounted prices.

See, everyone wins!

Well, almost. Even at high falootin' resale shops, the prices are still a little much. But, in comparison to full-price retail costs, it's a steal. Take for instance a Louis Vuitton bag that regularly retails for $1,000 or more (we're talking about a purse--how is that even legal?). At a resale shop, you can get the same purse for $250. Still a chunk of change, but nowhere near the kind of damage you would do to your credit rating if you went directly through Louis.

Frankly, I think upscale resale is a fabulous idea for the middle class with expensive fashion taste. What do you think? Have a favorite upscale consignment shop in your area? Tell us about it here!

--Heather Strang

The World of Cosmetics Expands...Yet Again

Shopping for cosmetics and skin care products has never been easy for women. We can flip through countless Mary Kay and Avon catalogs, brave the mall or wander the aisles of Target--all in search of the right look. But any way you slice it, there are just far too many choices out there. I mean, have you been to Sephora lately? I get dizzy the minute I step inside. It's lip gloss overload.

Well, things are about to get much busier. CVS Caremark Corp. recently announced its plans to join the high-end beauty store concept this year. "Beauty 360" (do you think it's meant to reference the vertigo you'll feel upon entering the store?) will allegedly carry 32 lines of skin care, cosmetics and fragrances. Thirty-two lines? There are already far too many lines available as it is! How will we ever know what to buy with all of these purchases?  I swear, soon, I'll look like an over-made-up clown.

According to Reuters, Beauty 360 stores will open next to existing CVS locations, first on the East Coast and then over on the West Coast. When asked why (for the love of god why??) the company, long known for its health focus, would open a beauty concept store, CVS spokeswoman Eileen Howard Dunn had this to say, "Beauty has always been a core part of our front-of-store offering, so this is the next evolution."

Okay, Eileen, I'm with you there. And I'm not too proud to say that I've purchased Maybelline mascara from a CVS store. Mascara is one thing, but a freestanding retail chain filled with more makeup and skin care? Is this really what the world needs?

Perhaps it is.

While I couldn't uncover any identifiable data on the need for more cosmetics stores, I'm sure CVS has thoroughly done their research. I'm just ready for a new retail concept. Maybe a sarong retail chain? 

What are your thoughts on yet another option for purchasing cosmetics? Leave your comments here.

--Heather Strang

The Contradictory Consumer

At a recent conference tour called Events Marketing Innovations, renowned speaker and retail branding consultant Robyn Waters did what she often does when I hear her speak--she blew me away. Her session, titled "Design with Heart," echoed everything this magazine and myself personally are seeing occur in the ever-wide retail landscape on a daily basis. Consumers--myself included--are stuck in a "claustrophobia of abundance," Waters exclaimed, swimming in pools of "stuff" with too many places to go, too many things to buy and too many choices once we get there. There are upwards of 300 cereal brands to choose from at my grocery store. At some point, I opt for bananas instead of cereal, choosing not to choose because the choice is too much (say that three times fast). Waters calls this the "paradox of choice," and man, does she hit it right on the nose.

The contradictory consumer today also recycles religiously, but drives an SUV, owns a Prada purse and shops at Costco. I personally love to wear name-brand clothing, but am quick to point out that I only purchase when it's 50 percent off or greater. And I don't think I'm in the minority there.

Waters spent 10 years working with Target Corp.--or "Tarzhay" as many are wont to call it--the upscale discounter (now there's a paradox!) that has brought design to the masses. Target's recipe for success included three ingredients: 1) being trend right (not trend forward); 2) being guest focused; and 3) being design driven (what Waters refers to as "the secret sauce").  She pointed out that a Philippe Starck-designed sippy cup for children that was released during her tenure then retailed for $3.49. The product's design is now so widely embraced, the item now sells for $50 on eBay.  "Now that's designing with heart," she said.

She pointed out how important it is to design an experience, and really connect with consumers in a high-touch way. She told an anecdote of Steve Jobs mentioning that he wanted the buttons on the new iPhone to look so good "that people would want to lick them." Have you seen the menu screen of an iPhone lately? It looks like you're looking into a box of colorful, delectable French chocolates. To pull the parallel into the retail sphere, Waters mentioned that the French term for window shopping is leche-vitrines--which translates literally to "lick the window."

How's that for a powerful design message?

--Alison Embrey Medina

The Body Shop ReInvents Its Green-ness

Green mania is in full effect, as every retailer, from major corporations to small mom-and-pop shops, claims to be making green-focused efforts. But with all the hoopla, consumers are beginning to get a little cynical.

Is that bamboo underwear really sustainable (not to mention comfortable?!) and what exactly does paraben-free mean? As consumer eco-friendly intelligence accelerates, it's more important than ever before for retailers to be honest, consistent and forth-coming.

A leader in the green revolution (and one of the founders), The Body Shop, has faced this crisis of conscience before. Originally beginning as one of the first eco-friendly cosmetic and skincare companies 32 years ago, the company quickly lost its credibility when it sold out to L'Oreal in 2006--who at that time had yet to ban animal testing. But, as they say, it isn't over till the fat lady sings. And in 2008, it's an entirely new day for The Body Shop.

The company is currently seeking to reclaim its environmentally responsible reputation. The latest campaign boasts, "Less packaging. More beautiful." According to GlobeandMail.com, the company is committed to boasting a bit more loudly about all of its green-ness.

"We're trying to bring some fun back," said Peter Saunders, CEO of the company. "We probably are guilty of being a little too serious. The whole brand is about nature--it's about fun, it's about personal treats and pampering."

The Body Shop is working with London-based Leagas Delaney to redesign its marketing campaign to convey this commitment to the environment and fun.

To be honest, though, I thought The Body Shop was sort of over. I knew they had an eco-friendly conscience, but they have been so quiet for so long, I had nearly forgotten about them. Can a new ad campaign bring them back? It might help. Consumers need to start thinking of The Body Shop again for them to come back in an even bigger way.

But the entire scenario lends itself to an important question--how do retailers distinguish themselves amidst a sea of green companies? How is YOUR green better or different than the other companies green techniques? And frankly, does it even matter? Isn't it more important that retailers are making a commitment to the green lifestyle?

Leave your thoughts here!

--Heather Strang

When the Secret Makes the Brand

A lair filled with vials of mystical herb concoctions. Musty, verdant smells wafting through the air. Special passwords needed to enter this mystical storeroom of secrets, as well as the combinations to intimidating giant padlocks. Is this a scene from a Harry Potter movie?

No, it’s just the extremes that KFC goes to in order to protect its special recipe of 11 herbs and spices, originally devised by Colonel Harland Sanders, the company’s founder. The original recipe was handwritten by Sanders, in 1940, on a sheet of paper that is now yellowed by age [he started the company in the '50s]. In order to update the security at its headquarters for storage of the treasured proprietary document--the key to its business success--the company had to temporarily remove the document. KFC USA President Roger Eaton presided over a special ceremony to commemorate the recipe’s removal, and bodyguards were hired to accompany the document to a safe place.

According to an Associated Press article published in the Houston Chronicle, KFC goes to great lengths to keep the recipe safe. Ingredients are ordered from separate suppliers, so no outsider is aware of everything that goes into the coating for the famous fried chicken, which gives it its unique, appealing flavor. Only two company officials at a time are allowed access to the document--and their names are also a secret. (Actually, the recipe was locked in a cabinet, protected by three locks, and the cabinet itself was locked inside a vault. Vials of the herbs and spices were stored with the recipe.)

Over the years, many people have tried to come up with a recipe of their own that matches the Colonel’s, but according to the company, few even come close. And why bother, when it is so convenient to pick up a bucket of chicken at KFC? Like the secret Coca-Cola recipe, the secret of the Colonel’s fried chicken is one of the food industry's top brand-equity propositions. After all, one good recipe can be worth a million bucks [actually KFC USA sales were $5.3 billion last year].

KFC is developing a new, original chicken strip menu item--so perhaps they are referencing the Colonel’s original notes for some new ideas. Let’s all get ready for some finger-licking good eating. And hey, guys, take care of that brand secret. It’s a national treasure.

--Diva

The End of Traditional Grocery Shopping?

Grocery shopping is one of the necessary evils of life, complemented by other loathsome tasks such as ironing, mopping and plucking one's eyebrows. Let's assess: you've got lots of lines, massive amounts of people, carts with only one properly working wheel (requiring a vice-like grip that leaves your biceps sore afterwards--well for us weenies, anyway) and of course, comatose cashiers.

Amazon.com seeks to put an end to the torture that is grocery shopping with its AmazonFresh delivery service. According to Seattlepi.com, the online retailer has been testing the service for some time now, and is expanding its service areas to greater portions of Seattle. I remember when grocery delivery service first hit the scene many, many years ago (Homegrocer, anyone?) and I loved it. But, like some innovative ideas, it seemed to fade into the background with the dot-com bust.

Amazon is doing its part by making some unique tweaks to the home grocery delivery system, such as:

-Free bags of produce.
-Paying sales tax on all taxable goods.
-Competitive prices on staple foods, such as milk and eggs.
-Quick delivery--when a customer orders before midnight, groceries are delivered before dawn.
-For pre-dawn delivery, there's no shipping fee for orders of $25 or more.
-Beer and wine are also on the grocery menu, although a customer must be present to accept deliveries.
-Drop-offs at a particular time must exceed charges of $50 to avoid a shipping fee.

Right now, I'm wishing I lived in Seattle (even though they get more rain than Portland!) just to test this out. As a huge fan of all things Amazon, I believe they might be able to make this food delivery service stick. They've been attempting to do so since 2003, and in August 2007 they started the AmazonFresh concept as a test.

"Right now, AmazonFresh is a test," said Tom Szkutak, CFO of Amazon.com. "It's very early. We're doing a test in the local Seattle market, and it's exactly that."

Test or not, it would be great to see a competitively priced and quality grocery delivery service come back on the scene in a big way. Then, I wouldn't have to strain my poor bicep muscles pushing around those one-wheeled carts.

Do you live in Seattle? If so, try out the service and leave your comments here--we'd love to hear about it! Know of a quality grocery delivery service? Tell us about it.

--Heather Strang

A Fashion Smashin’ Season--Filled with Palin Mania

Now that fall is here, a girl’s interest turns to fashion; right? And, from the Lifetime made-for-TV movie, “Coco Chanel,” which aired last weekend, to the recent Bryant Park fashion shows, to the Sarah Palin McFashion trend spin-offs, we’re suddenly awash in clothes and shoes and swept-up hairdos. Retailers are salivating. Diva is thrilled.

Republicans and Democrats, alike, are raving about Palin’s saucy pumps. Turns out most of her footwear is from Naughty Monkey [why is everything she does always about animals?] produced by House of Brands Inc. of San Diego. When one TV commentator referred to her as a “babe,” maybe he knew what he was talking about. According to an article in The Wall Street Journal, the shoemaker says Naughty Monkey footwear is targeted to “women in their early-20s, who go clubbing. “ A company spokesperson says the brand is a “very edgy, very hip, very street brand.” [Maybe there’s a lot more about Palin we don’t know. After all, we thought she was a “hockey mom,” with a passel of kids. Who knew she had a hip streak?]

And those glasses. Palin is a dead-ringer for the actress Tina Fey, star of the movie, "Baby Mama," who also wears glasses and sports a range of similar hairdos. According to the WSJ report, Palin’s specs are by the designer Kazuo Kawasaki (style 704, color 34) and from Italee Optics Inc. How does she manage to find all these hip brands, while isolated in Alaska. Have Saks and Neiman’s snuck in stores there, while no one was watching? (Actually, Palin is reported to shop often at Out of the Closet, an Anchorage-based secondhand clothing store, where she buys Juicy Couture and Escada.) And that hairdo--very late '60s--is already instigating a rush to beauty salons and wig shops.

Well, the fashion press is all a twitter. They are as happy as a pig in S_ _ _ [excuse Diva's french] to have the women of America fixate on a fashion role model [and move past Paris Hilton]--one who has somewhat of a sense of fashion style. And Estée Lauder is probably already at work on new lipsticks: Pitbull Plum and Piggy Pink.

Diva is happy to see a renewed interest in fashion, and without debating the hairdo and shoes, Palin’s trend-conscious, yet business-appropriate, outfits do set a good example. Wouldn’t it be nice to see more working/business women dressing that way? Or, sigh—like Madame Coco? “Well-turned-out” is the expression. [Let’s just hope that all those dead animals hanging on the walls of her office that show up in every camera pan for on-site interviews, don’t start a trend as well. Dead animals are definitely not cool!]

Last thought: Well, it seems McCain--after bashing Obama for being a celebrity--rushed out to get a celeb of his own. When Palin is with McCain, the crowd turnouts are in the thousands, a big improvement from the couple hundred he was attracting previously. Seems Americans want their candidates--camera ready and fashion savvy! And seems McCain out-celebed Obama, for sure.

--Diva

W Chic

What's better than the myriad of designer collections on display during Fashion Week? How about an ultra-chic lounge to house the glamorous after party? Resembling a giant kaleidoscope, the W Hotels VIP Backstage Lounge marked the W brand’s 10th season as a major sponsor of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week with its debut on Sept. 5. Manhattan-based design firm ICRAVE exclusively designed the W Hotels VIP Backstage Lounge, which was actually built off-site and transported to Bryant Park for re-assembly.

The lounge featured a series of custom-designed mirrored acrylic boxes lining the ceiling, which reflected all materials and figures below to create the illusion of a kaleidoscope. Fashion ensembles and crowd size allowed the ceiling to act as the “vessel” and the people as the “objects” being used to form the kaleidoscopic image. How cool is that!? Lounge guests provided the colors and patterns within the space.

The white glossy walls and seating areas sleekly contrast with the graphic ceiling. As a sort of secret treat, paneled walls open up to reveal something beyond--everything from a plasma screen TV, a product display or W Hotels property graphics. Guests are welcome to open or close the panels, another way in which the space was designed to perpetually change in color and appearance. Stadium platform seating and a raised DJ booth recreate the feel of the catwalk.

As if I needed another excuse to fantasize about sneaking into one of the big tents at Bryant Park (sigh). Did you get a peak of the W Hotels VIP Backstage Lounge first-hand last week? If so, tell us about it here!

--Jessie Bove

Photos: Christopher Draghi

Europeans Love American Retail

Back in the good ole days, Americans would plan lavish vacations to Europe, returning with overstuffed luggage filled with high-fashion clothes and other goodies. However, with the rise of the Euro, those days are all but a distant memory. Instead, Europeans are flocking to the states to get "bargain" deals at Apple, Armani and Ralph Lauren.

They're even mocking us by writing songs about it. Heard Estelle's latest cut, "American Boy?" Well, I have. Europeans are blatantly nabbing our "discounted" goods (hey--it's still full price for us!) and American boys, all the while laughing at our economic silliness. I don't care much about the boys, but I do care about having to cancel my trip to Paris because it now costs almost double what it would if I had traveled there, oh say, eight years ago. 

1 Euro currently runs about $1.50 to $1.60, making the United States a hot vacation spot for Europeans. And selfish reasons aside (I'll just have to see the Eiffel Tower some other time!), it's not a bad deal for retailers. If Americans aren't out shopping in droves, someone should be. Who better than our European pals? They've got fabulous accents, class and let's face it; they're a nice accessory to the shopping scene.

New York, Chicago and Los Angeles are all reporting increases in European travelers and retailers seem to be benefiting. In a recent article in Chicago Business, a European traveler had this to say, "We came here because of the strong Euro. It's great for us...We find the USA for us is now cheap, so we buy."

I have to admit, the concept resonates with me as well: cheap = buy. Absolutely! And if they want to throw money at Apple (one of the most popular locales according to Chicago Business), Hilfiger or even Bloomingdale's--by all means do. Personally, I think this is one way the sluggish dollar is working in our favor.

What do you think about the increase in foreign travelers to the United States for shopping purposes? Would you rather be in Paris (with me!) basking in the strength of the dollar? Or does it matter? Leave your thoughts here.

--Heather Strang