Enforcing The Six Cupcake Rule

Once upon a time in New York City, there was a little hole-in-the-wall shop on Bleeker Street called “The Magnolia Bakery.” Upon entering its doors, the intoxicating aroma of hot melted butter, confectioner’s sugar and flour are mixed in a concoction so potent that it arouses childhood memories of the kind of cupcakes your Mom used to make when you were in the fourth grade for your birthday party at school. I can see the tin-foiled cookie sheet now. The lines for the Magnolia Bakery were always out the door. I’m not a cupcake aficionado, but Magnolia does make a pretty good cupcake.

Then came the deluge...Magnolia Bakery was featured on “Sex & The City,“ supposedly the cupcakes conjure a kind of erogenous response greater than Samantha’s...you get the point. Leaving well enough not alone, Magnolia Bakery was featured in “Martha Stewart," “Vogue” fashion shoots and even “Gossip Girl." Cupcakes became sexy comfort food. Magnolia hit the big time, and demand outweighed production, hence several satellite shops. Each equally cute, right down to the pink gingham and staff wearing vintage aprons. It’s a shabby retro-chic, with Formica tables, aged wainscoting and oil clothed shelving with ruffles. These shops are fussier than Donna Reed could decorate them.

Well, the other day I was asked to pick up 36 cupcakes for a friend whose little girl was having a 12th birthday party. Not a problem, I thought, what are two dozen and a half cupcakes these days? Magnolia opened a branch right in my neighborhood (the Upper West Side). Magnolia was fully stocked with rows and rows of Willie Wonka-ed cupcakes, chocolate, pistachio, hummingbird (my favorite), vanilla, German chocolate, red velvet, carrot coconut, Oreo, strawberry shortcake, sprinkles, peanut butter, mocha, mint, even a pineapple upside down cupcake. Warning: do not try it at home! Not only were there cases upon cases of artery-clogging cupcakes, but staff was hastily frosting for the afternoon rush. (FYI: Magnolia uses a classic plop and swirl frosting technique.)

The best laid plans…As I placed my order with the lead froster, sans hair net, a silent pall came over the bakery. Was Smith Barney around? Miss Frostette did not even address me; she placed her hand on her hip and pointed to the sign above the cash register: “No more than six cupcakes to a customer.” Clearly, I thought that was just meant to be humorous, after all, if I can polish off a pizza, I can certainly inhale six cupcakes faster than you can say Pillsbury Dough Boy. But no, Frosty told me the policy was rigidly enforced, and she wasn’t about to lose her job for selling me seven, let alone 36 cupcakes. (She said 36 like it was a curse word.) I reluctantly purchased the six allotted to me, while pleading my case--I flirted, cajoled and even threatened to call the Better Business Bureau, but I saw it was a losing battle right away. I even played the sympathy card and lied through my teeth, telling the froster that this little girl was hospitalized at Mount Sinai, and that this will probably be her last birthday. Unfortunately, that line is frequently used at Magnolia. Drat the luck! I hastily gave up the idea of coming back six more times in costume to order more. Besides, I don’t have a fake moustache at home.

Holy Duncan Heines, I knew I could call a few friends and ask them to meet me and pick up half a dozen each, but really? I even offered a stranger a few bucks if he'd secretly pick me up six, but he scowled at me as if I was an underage teen asking him to buy me a six-pack of Heineken and cigarettes. I reasoned that there were three Magnolia shops in NYC, including Rockefeller Center, but even Betty Crocker on her best day would not take that much mass transit. Okay, I had the Magnolia box and bag, and figured that I could get cupcakes at any nearby bakery--and I would have to try and pass them off as “Magnolia’s.” Good Luck!

Now I know that Nordstrom placed a three-handbag limit on customers who were depleting stock from the stores, but cupcakes are readily replaceable. I understand the bakery’s dilemma, but give me back the good old day where rules were tempered with common sense. The customer is right; a sale is a sale, and what harm comes from letting go of a few cupcakes for a kid’s birthday?

I do not bear grudges, you can visit Magnolia on the Web at www.magnoliacupcakes.com and judge for yourself if they are what they're cracked up to be. Unfortunately they are.

--Ron Knoth, Guest Blogger

Photo: Zeva Oelbaum Cookbook Heaven at Recipelink.com.

Comments

[Ron Knoth]

Dear Hardliner,

Hardware stores are one of my favorite places on earth. I once met the actor Fredric March in a hardware store in Milford, CT. It was a pleasure debating with the two time Academy Award winning actor (nominated 12 times) about the benefits of brass tacks versus steel. I took his counsel and went for the brass. You never know who'll you'll run into.

I'm not certain where he'd come down on the cupcake controversy.

Ron

PS Let's hear about some hardware merchandising!!!

[hardliner]

Hi Ron,
I'm actually in Chicago and the wind here would blow the delicate icing right off of a cupcake unless superglued on, so I usually pass on cupcakes, which my waistline also appreciates. But it is certainly funny how much fanfare this column evoked and how serious people are about their sweets. Keep up the blogs and I hope one day to have some time to start writing again also, you left a kind note after one of my blogs about needing more telephones out on sales floors awhile back. But then I'm in the hardware business so what do I know about cupcakes, but I can sure display a mean chain saw or weed wacker.

[Ron Knoth]

Dear Cupcake fans,

I must confess after hundreds of blogs on so many topics, never in my wildest imagination did I ever expect so many of you to share so many cupcake opinions with me.

I will confirm that the Cupcake Café has the prettiest cupcakes. Indeed, they are works of arts, their Van Goghy icing blossoms are gorgeous. They make for a showy display, but the icing is slick, and I think the frosting to cupcake ratio is just too heavy for my taste.

Magnolia may have a debatable cupcake, but the Icebox Cake, and Coconut Cake is supreme. I can only tell you that their Hummingbird Cake, along side of a cup of English breakfast tea is a just lovely when you are feeling a little depressed and need some reassurance that tomorrow will be a better day.

Luckily, NY does have a few cupcake specialists. Thanks for your suggestions. I will add one of my own, which is “Crumbs“. It is never a disappointment. Their Grasshopper Cupcake (Chocolate & Mint) is yummy.

As for the practicality of limiting (cupcake) purchases in today’s marketplace, I have to say it is just punitive. Granted, mom would not let me consume six at a sitting, but gosh, that was because she wanted me to eat all my broccoli.

Keep the cupcake communication up!

Ron

[jm]

you can actually get more then 6 cupcakes at a time. if you look at their website you can get 2 dozen per visit and can special order larger quantities. not sure what all the fuss is about here...

[Hdtex]

There are far better bakeries in NY. Magnolia is only fair at best...enjoying it's buzz frrom the long dead Sex in The City show...

[Suzanne aka Punk Glam Queen]

The cupcakes at Magnolia aren't even that great -- the cake is dry and the frosting entirely too sweet. The Cupcake Cafe is much better -- delicious as well as works of art. Plus no attitude. http://www.cupcakecafe-nyc.com/?KMLID=6140

[Ron Knoth]

Dear Hardliner,

First of all, there really is a "Soup Nazi", here in NY. It's still a very popular place to go. They've relocated several times and people still seek them out.

As for the 6 cupcake policy, I understand why they have it, (by the way, you can order more if you order ahead) but in a pinch when there is plenty of stock I think it's just a tad too punitive.

The cupcakes are worth it!

Ron

[Bob Phibbs, the Retail Doctor]

You have to be joking me. Product going out is product going out. There's cache and then there's stupidity.

I myself trekked through the worst snowstorm of 2000 to enjoy their cupcakes but turning business away makes sense how, exactly?

[treilly007]

The truth is, if you are in NYC, there are other great places for yummy cupcakes... the Buttercup Bake Shop www.buttercupbakeshop.com and Sugar Sweet Sunshine www.sugarsweetsunshine.com are actually my favorite for cupcakes and red velvet cakes. I know for certain I have walked into Sugar Sweet Sunshine and picked up a dozen on the spot... Buttercup may have some requirements for on the spot pick-up. Either way... you've got yummy options. enjoy!

[hardliner]

I guess they are taking lessons from the famous "Soup Nazi", whoever he was (my son says I need to watch more inane TV and I say he needs to read more) But it may create a lot of buzz for them, and ultimately more sales as people learn there's a limit on product and a certain cachet for having a few stale cupcakes around to flaunt your ability to have them in the house.