Once upon a time in New York City, there was a little hole-in-the-wall shop on Bleeker Street called “The Magnolia Bakery.” Upon entering its doors, the intoxicating aroma of hot melted butter, confectioner’s sugar and flour are mixed in a concoction so potent that it arouses childhood memories of the kind of cupcakes your Mom used to make when you were in the fourth grade for your birthday party at school. I can see the tin-foiled cookie sheet now. The lines for the Magnolia Bakery were always out the door. I’m not a cupcake aficionado, but Magnolia does make a pretty good cupcake.
Then came the deluge...Magnolia Bakery was featured on “Sex & The City,“ supposedly the cupcakes conjure a kind of erogenous response greater than Samantha’s...you get the point. Leaving well enough not alone, Magnolia Bakery was featured in “Martha Stewart," “Vogue” fashion shoots and even “Gossip Girl." Cupcakes became sexy comfort food. Magnolia hit the big time, and demand outweighed production, hence several satellite shops. Each equally cute, right down to the pink gingham and staff wearing vintage aprons. It’s a shabby retro-chic, with Formica tables, aged wainscoting and oil clothed shelving with ruffles. These shops are fussier than Donna Reed could decorate them.
Well, the other day I was asked to pick up 36 cupcakes for a friend whose little girl was having a 12th birthday party. Not a problem, I thought, what are two dozen and a half cupcakes these days? Magnolia opened a branch right in my neighborhood (the Upper West Side). Magnolia was fully stocked with rows and rows of Willie Wonka-ed cupcakes, chocolate, pistachio, hummingbird (my favorite), vanilla, German chocolate, red velvet, carrot coconut, Oreo, strawberry shortcake, sprinkles, peanut butter, mocha, mint, even a pineapple upside down cupcake. Warning: do not try it at home! Not only were there cases upon cases of artery-clogging cupcakes, but staff was hastily frosting for the afternoon rush. (FYI: Magnolia uses a classic plop and swirl frosting technique.)
The best laid plans…As I placed my order with the lead froster, sans hair net, a silent pall came over the bakery. Was Smith Barney around? Miss Frostette did not even address me; she placed her hand on her hip and pointed to the sign above the cash register: “No more than six cupcakes to a customer.” Clearly, I thought that was just meant to be humorous, after all, if I can polish off a pizza, I can certainly inhale six cupcakes faster than you can say Pillsbury Dough Boy. But no, Frosty told me the policy was rigidly enforced, and she wasn’t about to lose her job for selling me seven, let alone 36 cupcakes. (She said 36 like it was a curse word.) I reluctantly purchased the six allotted to me, while pleading my case--I flirted, cajoled and even threatened to call the Better Business Bureau, but I saw it was a losing battle right away. I even played the sympathy card and lied through my teeth, telling the froster that this little girl was hospitalized at Mount Sinai, and that this will probably be her last birthday. Unfortunately, that line is frequently used at Magnolia. Drat the luck! I hastily gave up the idea of coming back six more times in costume to order more. Besides, I don’t have a fake moustache at home.
Holy Duncan Heines, I knew I could call a few friends and ask them to meet me and pick up half a dozen each, but really? I even offered a stranger a few bucks if he'd secretly pick me up six, but he scowled at me as if I was an underage teen asking him to buy me a six-pack of Heineken and cigarettes. I reasoned that there were three Magnolia shops in NYC, including Rockefeller Center, but even Betty Crocker on her best day would not take that much mass transit. Okay, I had the Magnolia box and bag, and figured that I could get cupcakes at any nearby bakery--and I would have to try and pass them off as “Magnolia’s.” Good Luck!
Now I know that Nordstrom placed a three-handbag limit on customers who were depleting stock from the stores, but cupcakes are readily replaceable. I understand the bakery’s dilemma, but give me back the good old day where rules were tempered with common sense. The customer is right; a sale is a sale, and what harm comes from letting go of a few cupcakes for a kid’s birthday?
I do not bear grudges, you can visit Magnolia on the Web at www.magnoliacupcakes.com and judge for yourself if they are what they're cracked up to be. Unfortunately they are.
--Ron Knoth, Guest Blogger
Photo: Zeva Oelbaum Cookbook Heaven at Recipelink.com.

Home»»




